The town of Kimmswick on the Mississippi River has suffered many floods but is still quaint, with 1840s houses, gift shops and craft shops, and my neighbor treated me to a hearty homemade lunch there at The Blue Owl, a historic country tearoom that grew into a gingham restaurant that never forgot it evolved from a bakery — and to this day produces the Levee-High Apple Pie, which makes the “normal” pies surrounding it seem like rice cakes by comparison. The Christmas-cookie tray (not shown; it’s too many calories to even look at) also had a major wow factor. The Blue Owl keeps country hours, closing at 3 (that’s p.m.!) on weekdays and at 5 on Saturday and Sunday; closed Mondays. Currently it’s got nice Christmas decorations. Order a slice of Levee-High Apple Pie and half a pound of sliced apples collapses onto your plate. Nowadays when they say “as American as apple pie,” they mean this one.